Pastil has become a popular food due to its flavor and low cost which is worth less than ₱50.00 pesos and it is also referred to as a “student-friendly” meal for students who want something less pricey but still tasty. It is traditionally prepared with steamed rice, shredded chicken or fish, and wrapped in banana leaves.
This binalot-style meal, which originated with the Moros of Maguindanao, is frequently served on important occasions such as Muslim weddings, birthdays, and Eid al-Fitr, thus becoming an increasingly common option among Filipino Muslims.
However, a contentious post arose in which the major ingredient was changed from chicken pastil to pork. This move from the traditional recipe has outraged both culinary connoisseurs and Mindanao residents. Critics argue that such a modification is an impolite act of cultural appropriation.
John Sherwin Felix, the founder of Lokalpedia, a web-based database for Philippine endemic ingredients, highlighted that reinventing pastil with pork is an example of cultural appropriation.
He used the example of pastil in a bottle, which he claims is technically wrong because the meat is called kagikit and just becomes pastil once wrapped using rice in a banana leaf.
“In the Philippine context, the Moros have been struggling for their self-determination, culture, and land for decades. They have been victims of hate and fear because of their religion (Islamophobia). Yet, people from a dominant culture have taken food that evolved and is intertwined with their faith and way of life,” he explained.
“People didn’t consider the context and instead commercialized and profited from it, creating a version that is the total opposite of the Moros’ core values and beliefs,” he added.
Mubarak Maliga Tahir, a Mindanao State University faculty member, acknowledged the dish’s cultural significance.
“Marami ng bersyon ang pastil sa Pilipinas lalo na sa mga komersyal ngunit sa pagkakataong ito, isang pambabastos at pagyurak sa kultura ng mga Moro at Muslim ang paglikha ng bagong bersyon ng Pastil na ang toppings ay karne ng baboy,” he noted.
“Hindi masama ang panggagaya o paglikha ng bagong bersyon ng isang pagkain na identidad ng isang kultura. Subalit ang paglikha ng isang pagkain na taliwas sa orihinal at may bahid ng pagsasawalang galang sa kultura at paniniwala ng nagmamay-ari nito ay isang gawaing hindi paggalang sa kultura ng iba,” Tahir said.
Photo courtesy: The Lasallian